AUGUST 15 – TJAKTJA TO ALESJAURE 22 KM
We opened the tent door and were greeted with a little sunshine but mostly clouds. It was easy packing up and the guys talked a lot which gave us a slow start to the day but we weren’t in a rush anyways. I was just anxious to get over the pass before it started raining. Our shoulders were sore, my knees were aching, but our spirits were high thanks to our new traveling companions.
Getting ready to head for Tjäktja pass.
Not long after hitting the trail, the helicopter landed to evacuate a participant who most likely was unable to continue due to an injury or sickness. It was good to know there was always a way out if we ever needed it. It was also a reminder that not everyone makes it to the finish line. We waited for the helicopter to depart and joined the trail with many others who had all bunched up before the pass.
The helicopter airlifts a hiker out to safety.
It was a steep climb and not that difficult but the fact it was muddy and raining slightly, made it slippery and my feet didn’t feel very stable beneath me. I could have chosen the less steep path but decided to conquer the more direct route up to the top. My poles dug in and there were a few spots I froze not knowing where my next step would be. My balance was off and my mind pictured myself falling backwards all the way down the rocks and mud. This is where I needed to focus and control my thoughts. I actually didn’t know if I could make it up and I couldn’t find a way to go back down. David was just ahead of me and noticed my panic. He started coaching me along and instructed me where to put my foot next. It was one step at a time and I remember the last push to the top was a rush of relief and feeling of accomplishment.
Jack, Sarah and David are almost at the top!
I made it! Paul causally walked up the pass and made it look too easy while I celebrated that I didn’t wipe out and take everyone down with me. This was the most challenging part of the trail for me and thankfully it was all downhill from here. In a good way of course!
All down hill from here!
We made it to the highest point of the trek.
We made it to the first checkpoint of the day and the highest point of the Classic at 1140 ASI. Taking a rest, we enjoyed coffee and a chocolate brownie. Then mother nature gifted us a rainbow as a reward. Our little group felt like we were on a quest in Lord of the Rings. David would have been a wizard, Paul a dwarf, Jack a hobbit and I think I’d be an elf. It was fun thinking about that as we walked through landscapes that could have been right out of a fantasy novel. We were looking out for each other and expected we’d make it to Abisko together.
Taking a lunch break at the checkpoint.
The next several hours were mentally draining. This stretch featured some of the most beautiful scenery I can recall. It dazzled us while punishing us. Rainbow after rainbow appeared almost mockingly. It was humorous to witness so many rainbows while feeling so cold, wet and tired. To pass the time, David started singing Irish folk songs which pleasantly surprised me! That is one of my most favourite memories. Listening to David with his German accent, singing Irish drinking songs, while hiking over muddy rocks. I joined in on a few which made me smile even though the conditions were miserable. That’s when I truly learned what the Classic was all about. Sharing in the joy of the adventure with the people you meet along the trail.
A rainbow appeared encouraging us onward.
Rainy with a high chance of rainbows.
Paul’s nose was bleeding a lot and he was clearly not well. He had started feeling sick a couple days earlier and took antibiotics to help fight whatever he had caught. It was starting to catch up with him and I could see his comfort level getting pretty low. But once again, a rainbow appeared and tried to brighten those low moments.
Paul takes a moment to enjoy the scenery.
So grateful to be here together.
We could almost see the Alesjaura checkpoint and it was at the top of a steep climb. We crossed over a huge bridge with an aqua coloured lake below us. It was a magical place. We gathered the last of our energy for the day and trudged up the incline to the top and were greeted by, you guessed it, another rainbow!
Enough with the rainbows.
We checked in and immediately noticed the bugs more than anywhere else on the Kungsleden. I got to use my bug net for the first time and I was happy I had it. Otherwise, I would have eaten hundreds of flies as we set up camp. There weren’t a lot of available spots when we arrived but we managed to set our tents up in a row along a flat part of the rock. The guys had fun making a clothesline out of our hiking poles to help dry our wet gear while I organized the beds inside the tent. I cleaned up and got myself ready for bed while listening to the guys talking about how their home country’s differed from each other. Paul loved asking David and Jack all sorts of questions.
Paul collects water with his Grayl water filter.
It was not as convenient to collect water at this camp spot. We were pretty thankful for the collapsible water jug we brought along with us. It ended up being super useful and Paul offered to fill it up for everyone, saving them a trip down to collect water. It was nice to be able to help each other out when we could.
Setting up camp possibly one last time.
With over 35kms left to go, I anticipated we’d might need another night to get to the finish. It didn’t occur to me that it could also possibly be our last night out on the trail. We had been averaging nearly 20 kms a day so we’d see how we felt in the morning if we wanted to push through.
Day 4 we covered 22 km, conquered the Tjäktja pass, saw more rainbows than we cared to enjoy, sang Irish tunes with David and used our bug hats for the first time. Sadly no sign of Magnus.
Do you think we’ll catch up to Magnus one last time? Will the bugs get worse? Will we be fortunate to remain injury free to the end? Find out in the next blog all about Day 5.
